In a recent communication via email, Jennifer described their practice as regenerative agriculture. This is defined as farming that improves the resources it uses rather than destroying or depleting them. Jennifer wrote: “For us it means placing a premium on deep rooted pastures with the goal of sequestering carbon, improving soil health and promoting biodiversity.” She goes on to say that “[regenerative farming] should include pasture-raised animals that provide the inputs soils need, rather than relying on fertilizers.”
Jennifer and Brian lease 10 acres of a 330-acre farm. She says that they are fortunate to be surrounded by organic agriculture and forested buffers. The pasture they currently use was in organic grain crops prior to them taking it over. They are seeding in a mixture of clovers and grasses to reduce soil compaction and allow the pastures to grow tall and put down deep roots. She says that they move their laying hens and broiler chickens over the pasture in a rotational system that provides rich organic matter. She noted that this summer their pastures were able to soak up 10 inches of rain in a day without flooding.
Brian was born in Oregon, and has lived on the Eastern Shore since 2011. He is a licensed forester and owns a natural resource consulting firm, Sustainable Resource Management. Jennifer grew up in Anne Arundel County and has lived on the Eastern Shore since 2018. She is a landscape architect with a design practice that focuses on native vegetation and storm water management.
Both Jennifer and Brian were led into this form of agriculture, she says, because they became “increasingly appalled by the quality of the food available to the general public, as well as the environmental impacts of the industrial system that produces most of our food supply. We see our society becoming sicker, farmers going broke and ecosystems failing,” she says.
They raise Freedom Ranger broiler chickens, which Jennifer describes as being closer to a heritage breed and growing considerably slower than those typically raised in large chicken houses. Because they grow slower, they are healthier, she says. They are raised out on pastures
in movable, open-air huts that provide protection from predators. The broilers are moved every morning, exposing them to fresh pasture. The fowl also receive a grain ration that they purchase from Cutfresh Organics in Eden, Wicomico County.
They have two flocks of laying hens, the main flock being Red Sexlink chickens, known for their prolific egg production. They have a movable coop that they move to a different pasture each week. Their pasture is fenced in portable electric fence netting to protect them from fox and raccoons. A second flock is made up of various heritage breed hens that lay a variety of colorful eggs, including blue, green, and very dark brown. According to Jennifer they aren’t prolific layers and she and Brian jokingly refer to them as “freeloaders.” They raise them because they are beautiful and to help save the breeds from extinction.
In addition to chickens, Brian and Jennifer raise heritage breed turkeys, which include Royal Palms, Sweetgrass, and Bourbon Reds. Jennifer notes that all those breeds are threatened with extinction. They haven’t been hybridized to grow faster with bigger breasts. Their turkeys take 30 weeks to reach market weight versus 17 weeks for the broad-breasted whites available in most grocery stores. The result of the slower growing period is a tastier bird, according to Jennifer. She and Brian are licensed to process all their poultry right on the farm.
In the future, when they have more help, they plan to have pasture-raised Heritage Pork and charcuterie available.
The couple also hopes to have vegetables available in 2021.
Brian and Jennifer avoid the middleman by directly marketing their products themselves through relationships with the Chestertown Natural Foods Store, Hill’s Cafe in Easton, David’s Natural Market in Gambrills, as well as selling in the Chestertown Farmer’s Market and through their social media presence and website.
This writer was very impressed with what Brian and Jennifer are doing and their motivation to produce healthy food, while preserving and improving natural resources and protecting threatened species of chickens and turkeys. Common Sense wishes them continued success.
Sources:
https://www.wherepigsfly.farm/
Email interview with Jennifer Vaccaro
All images are from https://www.wherepigsfly.farm/.
A native of Wicomico County, George Shivers holds a doctorate from the University of Maryland and taught in the Foreign Language Dept. of Washington College for 38 years before retiring in 2007. He is also very interested in the history and culture of the Eastern Shore, African American history in particular.
Title image: Pond at Pickering Creek Audubon Center, Talbot Co. Photo: Jan Plotczyk