Ancient Eating on the Eastern Shore

Jeanette E. Sherbondy • April 13, 2022

Tuckahoe plant (Peltandra virginica) in marsh. Photo: Wikimedia commons


What did the ancient peoples living on the Eastern Shore eat aside from the meats we still eat? Deer, turkey, beaver, squirrel, pheasant, partridge, geese, ducks, muskrats, and fishes of many kinds were available as well as crabs and oysters, but what else?

 

Not French fries. Potatoes originated in the South American Andean mountains, but went to Europe first and then came back to North America with the Europeans who brought their own native carrots, parsnips, cabbage, and beets in addition to potatoes.

 

Europeans also introduced their native grains — barley and rye — and brought wheat from the Middle East. Corn (maize) and squashes were also imports, but from travelers who brought them from Mexico to the Southwest, and then to the Mississippi watershed, and later to the Eastern woodlands about 3,000 years ago.

 

So what form of starch had the Indigenous people been eating here in earlier millennia? The staple was tuckahoe or tockwogh; this translates into English as arrowroot, or arrow arum (Peltandria virginica). The leaves are shaped like arrow heads. It’s also known informally as duck corn.

 

Tuckahoe grows throughout the eastern United States and Canada and all along the east coast. It likes still or slow-moving waters, such as ponds, swamps, marshes, and the banks of streams. It can grow in full sun to shade — a very adaptable plant. Wherever groups of people went in the east they could depend on finding arrow arum in wet places. The variety found mostly here and up to Pennsylvania provided the early native peoples with edible seeds, fruits, leaves, and roots. The water birds fed on it too!

 

The roots form a perennial rhizome that is a good source of starch, but it needs preparation before eating. It contains calcium oxalate — microscopic needle-shaped crystals that make your lips, mouth, throat, tongue, and fingers swell and burn. Too much of it can be fatal, but with the instantaneous warning of burning and swelling, people soon learned to cook it for a very long time (at least 9 hours), heat it, dry it, and then grind it up to make breads and soups. The boiled spadix (flower spike) and berries were considered a luxury, and it seems to have a hint of cocoa flavor.

 

It's a hard job to dig up these rhizomes and the mud stinks, but it was a reliable food. The women did the hard work of digging up the roots and tossing them into the open stream for the children to gather and put in the canoe. These piled up like potatoes. Back on shore the women peeled off the rind and cut it into thin slices for sun drying.

 

The women then pounded the sun dried tuckahoe in a wooden mortar to make flour for dumplings or to thicken a stew. They kept a stew boiling constantly. Returning hunters contributed meats and fish as well as shellfish to the stew. This was the basic diet for millennia from 20,000 years ago.

 

Tuckahoe was eaten every month of the year, but it was very important in the winter when people had to live off stored up foods. In the spring it was the main plant growing that they could eat. In March and April they ate stews of tuckahoe and available meat: fish, turkey, squirrel, ducks, and geese. In May and June nuts and berries became available to supplement tuckahoe and the meats acquired by hunting. Only about 3,000 years ago did they start to use these months of the year to plant fields of maize and squash.

 

Maize was the domesticated product of teosinte that grows wild in Mexico. Domesticated 8,700 years ago, maize is a “short-day” plant that requires less exposure to light. It takes 9 months to grow in Mexico, but has to ripen more quickly in northern latitudes above the Tropic of Capricorn. By 4,100 years ago it had adapted genetically to the Southwest, New Mexico, and Arizona. It spread slowly to the Eastern Shore, and was a great crop for starch.

 

Squash (Cucurbita pepo) also was domesticated as a crop around 3,000 years ago. It was initially used for its seeds and as gourd containers. Later the flesh was eaten and in Mexico the flowers are eaten. I have a jar of squash flowers from Mexico that I bought in Chestertown. It is recommended for inclusion in quesadillas.

 

No beans are mentioned in the archaeological record for the eastern coastal areas. Phaseolus vulgaris, the common bean, is native to Mexico. It spread throughout South and Central America and from Mexico it was taken north to the American Southwest for cultivation, but the history of any spread to the eastern woodlands has not been studied. The Europeans introduced their native broad bean, Fava, that is not related to the American beans.

 

Maize and squash were preferred to any earlier cultivated crop. The Eastern Shore peoples had green corn ready from June through August; summer meats were snake and fish. From July to September the crops were ripening. From August to October the crops were ready to eat, though tuckahoe was always part of the diet along with berries and nuts (walnut, hickory and bitter pecan). The next few months were times of plenty on the Eastern Shore. Migrating ducks and geese added succulent meats to the tuckahoe and corn stews.

 

Here is a modern recipe for preparing tuckahoe by Green Deane of EatTheWeeds.com:

 

“Like the Jack-in-the-Pulpit, the best use is to slice it up and dry it for a few months. It can also be roasted in an oven for a day or more, which is not cost effective. The Indians would collect them, bury them in the ground, build a huge fire over them and cook them for a day or more.

 

“Tuckahoe also responds to microwaving but it is hard to get the right timing between making it safe to eat and turning it to charcoal. However, microwaving it some shortens the drying time to edibility significantly. I nuke the slices one minute to 90 seconds and then let them sit until edible, which can be immediately to a few weeks.

 

“Another technique I’ve used is my solar oven. I peel the roots and put them in whole. It takes about 10 hours of solar drying over two days to make them edible, though hard. I haven’t tried making them into chips and using a shorter amount of time.

 

“The edibility test is the same for the Jack-in-the-Pulpit. To test them: Chew a quarter-inch square piece on one side of your mouth for a full minute then spit it out and wait ten minutes. And I mean chew for a minute and I mean wait ten minutes and I mean one side of your mouth (to limit the area that burns). The effect can be quite delayed. If the calcium oxalate is still present it will make one side of your mouth burn, and your tongue and lips. That can last up to a half an hour or so. If no burn, try a bigger piece the same way. If no burn then, you’re ready to go.

 

“You can eat the dry chips as is, or grind them up as a flour. If you air dried them they can be used as a thickener. If you dried them at over 150F they can be used as a flour but not as a thickener because the starch will have already been cooked.”

 

This is the true Eastern Shore food. It takes hard work to pick and prepare but it was a plentiful source of starch every month of the year, essential to the diet of the Eastern Shore Indians.

 

Sources:

Busby, Virginia (2002) Chapter 5: “Delmarva Ethnohistory in Hickory Bluff: Changing Perceptions of Delmarva Archaeology” in Hickory Bluff: Changing Perceptions of Delmarva Archaeology, compiled by Michael D. Petraglia, et al. 

https://www.academia.edu/34872668/Chapter_5_Delmarva_Ethnohistory_in_Hickory_Bluff_Changing_Perceptions_of_Delmarva_Archaeology

 

Green Deane, “Tuckahoe, Arrow Arum”, Eat the Weeds

 https://www.eattheweeds.com/peltandra-virginica-starch-storer-2/

 

Roundtree, Helen C. (1995) Young Pocahontas in the Indian World, Yorktown, Virginia

 

Wikipedia, Eastern Agricultural Complex

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eastern_Agricultural_Complex

 

Wikipedia, Peltandra virginica

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peltandra_virginica

 

 

Jeanette E. Sherbondy is a retired anthropology professor from Washington College and has lived here since 1986. In retirement she has been active with the Kent County Historical Society and Sumner Hall, one of the organizers of Legacy Day, and helped get highway /historical markers recognizing Henry Highland Garnet. She published an article on her ethnohistorical research of the free Black village, Morgnec.



Common Sense for the Eastern Shore

Health of His Constituents is Apparently Not a Priority for Rep. Dr. Andy Harris

By Jan Plotczyk • October 8, 2025
The Republican Congress and President Trump are causing a health care crisis and Democrats are trying to fix it. Passed in July, the GOP budget reconciliation bill is drastically cutting health insurance programs to pay for tax cuts for billionaires. Rep. Andrew P. Harris (R-MD01) voted for the budget reconciliation bill. He voted, knowing that his vote would mean that health care costs would rise for 25,000 of his constituents in Maryland’s First Congressional District:

Judge Denies Trump Administration’s Attempt to Stall Maryland Offshore Wind Case Amid Federal Shutdown

By CSES Staff • October 8, 2025
 Efforts by the Trump administration to delay a critical court case over Maryland’s offshore wind project have failed, marking another setback in the president’s campaign to block renewable energy development along the East Coast. On Oct. 2, U.S. District Court Judge Stephanie Gallagher denied a motion filed by the Department of Justice to pause an ongoing lawsuit involving US Wind’s proposed 114-turbine wind farm off Ocean City. The administration had argued that the federal government’s shutdown prevents its attorneys from continuing the case. The judge’s swift rejection ensures that the litigation and progress on one of Maryland’s most significant clean energy projects will continue. Initially filed by Ocean City officials and a small group of residents nearly a year ago, the suit challenges the federal approval of US Wind’s project, which would deliver enough clean electricity to power more than 700,000 homes. Under the Biden administration, the federal government had defended the project in partnership with US Wind. That stance was reversed after Trump took office earlier this year and installed officials hostile to offshore wind. In September, the Trump administration filed a separate motion seeking to vacate federal approval for the Maryland project altogether, a move widely condemned by environmental advocates, labor groups, and business leaders who see offshore wind as a cornerstone of Maryland’s energy and economic future. US Wind responded forcefully to the shutdown motion, warning the court that the administration’s attempts to delay proceedings could allow it to undermine the project’s approval behind the scenes quietly. The company argued that halting the case would create “existential risks” for the future of Maryland’s offshore wind industry. Judge Gallagher agreed that the case should move forward, setting the next status hearing for Oct. 7. The Trump administration’s repeated efforts to obstruct offshore wind development come as Maryland and other states have invested heavily in building the infrastructure, workforce, and port facilities needed to anchor the growing clean energy industry. Maryland Gov. Wes Moore has championed the sector as a key driver for well-paying jobs and long-term economic resilience for the Eastern Shore. Supporters of US Wind point out that the project will bring over $1 billion in investment to Maryland, generate thousands of construction and maintenance jobs, and help deliver cleaner, more affordable energy to homes and businesses across the region. “Offshore wind isn’t just about turbines, it’s about jobs, innovation, and independence,” one clean energy advocate said after the ruling. “Every delay costs working Marylanders opportunity, and this decision ensures progress continues.” While the broader lawsuit over the project’s approval is ongoing, the latest ruling represents a clear win for those fighting to keep Maryland’s offshore wind future on track — and a blow to Trump’s attempt to turn back the clock on clean energy.

Should We Pin Our Hopes on Mid-Cycle Redistricting in MD-01?

By Jan Plotczyk • October 8, 2025
Maryland has eight congressional districts, and the seats for all but District 01 are filled by Democrats. As we well know, the First District representative is a Republican — Andrew P. Harris. Here’s what Maryland’s congressional district map is now.

Megan Outten Kicks Off Wicomico County Council District 7 Campaign with Packed Crowd and Strong Early Momentum

By CSES Staff • October 8, 2025
With standing room only at Salisbury’s Historic Poplar Hill Mansion, and blending policy, community service, and grassroots energy, Megan Outten launched her campaign for Wicomico County Council District 7 before almost 100 supporters on Oct. 4. The event drew community residents, labor leaders, and local officials, many of whom also helped to pack nearly 300 care kits for Wicomico residents in need. The community service effort doubled as a campaign statement about what Outten calls “choosing connection over convenience.” District 7 is one of Wicomico’s newly drawn single-member districts, with a Democratic advantage of 7.7%. Outten recalled her family’s history of service in Fruitland and Salisbury. “Service isn’t just politics in my family,” she said. “It’s how you belong to a place. It’s how you prove you care.” She pointed to the county’s landfill crisis, water and septic system failures, and school underfunding as examples of leadership that reacts rather than plans. “This is what happens when leaders only react after things break,” she said. “It costs us more. It hurts families. It robs our kids of the future they deserve.” Outten was joined by several local leaders who offered strong endorsements and reflections on her record. AFSCME Local 3 Eastern Shore representative Jack Hughes praised her leadership on the Salisbury City Council, crediting her with helping pass the Eastern Shore’s first municipal labor code, a significant win for city workers and first responders. Councilman Josh Hastings, who represents the district and is running for the Maryland House of Delegates in District 38B, said Outten would be “crucial in carrying forward the progress we’ve made” on clean water, schools, and infrastructure planning. Whitney Snowden-Olanrewaju from Blending Cultures, a non-profit organization that promotes diversity and equality, spoke about Outten’s record of community inclusion and bridge-building across diverse groups. Outten’s campaign is expected to roll out additional endorsements in the coming weeks. In her speech, she outlined a platform focused on fully funding schools, investing in infrastructure before it fails, and ensuring that county government works for everyone. “This campaign is not mine,” she told the crowd. “It’s ours. I am not standing above you. I am standing with you. And together, we will put Wicomico families first.” With enthusiasm, endorsements, and her message that’s focused on service and accountability, Outten’s kickoff reinforced that District 7 is already shaping up to have a strong favorite in 2026.

Community Rallies After Theft of Car Containing Hundreds of Care Kits for Wicomico Residents in Need

By CSES Staff • October 8, 2025
An act of inhumanity in Salisbury has sparked an outpouring of compassion. Early on Oct. 5, community organizer Jared Schablein’s car was stolen from his backyard. Inside the vehicle were hundreds of care kits assembled just days earlier during Megan Outten’s Wicomico County Council District 7 campaign kickoff event. Packed by volunteers at Salisbury’s Poplar Hill Mansion, the kits contained feminine hygiene products, socks, and toiletries meant for Wicomico County residents facing housing insecurity. “Those kits were meant for neighbors in need,” said Schablein. “If nothing else, I hope whoever took them returns them. Getting those care kits to the folks who need them matters more to me than anything else.” Schablein and Outten have turned the theft into action, launching a new effort called the “Care Kits Comeback Drive.” The event, scheduled for Oct. 12 at 2pm at Poplar Hill Mansion, aims to replace every lost kit, and more. Volunteers are asked to bring or donate items such as sanitary wipes, socks, toothpaste, period products, and underwear. Donations will support the Wicomico County Library, Help and Outreach Point of Entry, and other local service organizations. In announcing the new drive, Schablein emphasized the deeper meaning behind the effort: “When acts of inhumanity happen, the best response is acts of humanity. We’re showing that Salisbury’s compassion can’t be stolen.” Despite the setback, organizers say community support has been overwhelming. Donations began arriving within hours of the announcement, and several local groups have offered to distribute supplies once the new kits are complete. The theft is still under investigation by the Salisbury Police Department. As one volunteer put it at the last event, “Community isn’t guaranteed, it’s built.” This Sunday, Salisbury will build it again.

Momentum Builds to Save Connelly Mill Park: Community Leaders and State Officials Unite Around Vision for Wicomico’s “Central Park”

By CSES Staff • October 8, 2025
What began as a grassroots campaign to preserve a parcel of local land has become one of the most inspiring community movements on the Eastern Shore. Led by residents James and Mikele Dahlen and Holly Campbell, alongside dozens of volunteers, the Save Connelly Mill Park effort reached a significant milestone last week as Maryland Secretary of Natural Resources Josh Kurtz toured the site with local and state officials to explore opportunities for partnership and permanent protection. On Sept. 23, citizens gathered at Connelly Mill Park with a delegation of state and county leaders, including Sen. Mary Beth Carozza, Del. Barry Beauchamp, County Council President John Cannon, Vice President Jeff Merritt, Councilman James Winn, and local municipal representatives from Delmar and Salisbury. The tour marked the strongest signal to date that the state may play an active role in turning the park’s long-promised vision into reality. Advocates for Save Connelly Mill Park presented Kurtz with a booklet outlining the site’s environmental, historical, and economic importance. The presentation highlighted Connelly Mill’s potential to become a keystone of Wicomico’s park system — protecting the Paleochannel aquifer, preserving wildlife habitats, and providing much-needed green space for recreation and community gathering. Located just five miles from Salisbury, the 234-acre property has rolling forest, wetlands, and unique topography that advocates say could one day make it the “Central Park of Wicomico County.” “The natural beauty of Connelly Mill spoke for itself,” said one organizer after the event. “What we have here is not just land, it’s a promise to future generations.” Adding to the momentum, the community’s advocacy materials were presented directly to Maryland Gov. Wes Moore the next day at the Tawes Crab and Clam Bake in Crisfield, where he was briefed on the citizens’ efforts and growing local support. The proposed park would provide walking trails, open space for families, and educational opportunities while safeguarding vital water resources and promoting mental, physical, and social well-being for county residents. For many, the movement to save Connelly Mill has come to represent more than just one park. It’s about accountability, long-term planning, and ensuring public commitments to community spaces are kept. “We’re not out of the woods yet,” the group shared in a recent update. “But the spotlight is on Connelly Mill, and the momentum is growing.” As the state evaluates whether to designate Connelly Mill as a Partnership Park, supporters say they will continue to meet with officials and rally community engagement to ensure this once-forgotten project finally fulfills its promise. If realized, Connelly Mill would not only protect vital natural resources — it would stand as testament to what determined citizens can build when they refuse to give up.
Show More