We’re being invaded! Blue catfish are now an invasive species in the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries. They were introduced in the 1970s by fishermen — understandably, because the fish can provide a substantial and tasty meal to the angler who lands one.
According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), the fish were thought to be a fresh-water-only species, so they were expected to remain in the James, Rappahannock, and York river basins of Virginia where they were first introduced. It turned out that blue cats can tolerate brackish water such as in the bay, and consequently they have spread throughout the bay’s tributary system, all the way up to the Susquehanna in Pennsylvania.
Blue catfish (Ictalurus furcatus) are the largest American species of catfish. Their primary range is in the Mississippi River and its tributaries, including the Missouri and Ohio rivers, but they are also found in the Rio Grande River basin.
According to the NOAA fisheries website, blue catfish can live as long as 25 years, though the typical lifespan is less than half that. The fish usually reach a size around two to three feet long, with a maximum around 5 feet. While catches in the neighborhood of 300 pounds were reported in the 1800s, anything over 100 pounds is a rarity nowadays, and 5-10 pounds is more common. The record for Maryland stands at 84 pounds, caught in the Potomac River in 2012.
The problem with blue cats is that such a big fish has a big appetite to match, and these fish prey on many of the species that lovers of Maryland seafood consider iconic — rockfish, blue crabs, shad, and others. The NOAA website also reports that a 10-pound female can produce as many as 20,000 eggs in a single breeding season.
And to top it all off, the fish have few natural predators in the Chesapeake region. Eagles and ospreys prey on them, but other than that the only species that exerts any significant pressure on their population growth is good ol’ homo sapiens on the dry end of a fishing line.
The Chesapeake Bay Program responded to the blue catfish in August 2020 with an Invasive Catfish Management Strategy, which also addresses the flathead catfish, another species that has become a nuisance in the bay. Among other methods of control, the strategy encourages recreational fishing for these two species, both of which have become popular among anglers.
Commercial fishing for catfish has also expanded in response to the increase of blue catfish in the bay. Supermarket patrons may have noticed catfish for sale in their local stores, and blue catfish has become a regular offering in the dining halls of state-owned institutions such as correctional facilities.
The NOAA website notes the healthy aspects of eating blue catfish: “A 4-ounce serving of blue catfish includes 19 grams of protein, with only 90 calories and 1.5 grams of fat. And they include healthy Omega-3 fatty acids, too.” However, because — like all top predators — catfish tend to accumulate toxins in their bodies as they grow larger, experts recommend limiting fish for the table to those below 24 inches long. Bigger fish can still be caught by sportsmen looking for a challenging fight and an impressive trophy, of course.
As far as recipes for blue catfish, there are plenty out there. The Maryland Department of Agriculture has one collection of recipes online, but there are lots of others available. The classic Cajun recipe for blackened catfish would be a fine choice, considering that the blue catfish is the native species in the area where the recipe originated. Or you could try this recipe for a blue catfish sandwich, thanks to Delmarva Times. Give your imagination free rein.
And maybe you’ll be inspired to get out on the water and catch some catfish, bring them home, and eat them. It’s what Marylanders have been doing for as long as there’ve been people living by the bay, and blue catfish are just the newest ingredient in the age-old culinary mix. The crabs and rockfish will thank you for it!
Peter Heck is a Chestertown-based writer and editor, who spent 10 years at the Kent County News and three more with the Chestertown Spy. He is the author of 10 novels and co-author of four plays, a book reviewer for Asimov’s and Kirkus Reviews, and an incorrigible guitarist.
Title image: Pond at Pickering Creek Audubon Center, Talbot Co. Photo: Jan Plotczyk