Black History Tours on the Eastern Shore, Part 1

Jane Jewell • July 17, 2023

Young Frederick Douglass


Frederick Douglass and Harriet Tubman — two of history’s most famous African Americans — were born and lived their early years on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. Both escaped from slavery, adopting new names in part to hide from “slave catchers.” Both became activists for freedom and civil rights for their fellow African Americans before, during, and after the Civil War. 

 

Today, with the help of self-guided or docent-led walking and driving tours, you can visit the sites where Douglass and Tubman lived and worked before escaping North to freedom. Sites are open to the public or visible from the road. The Eastern Shore is a beautiful rural area and a drive to these sites can be relaxing and inspiring.

 

Part 1 of this series focuses on abolitionist, orator, writer, and newspaper publisher Frederick Douglass. Part 2 will cover Underground Railroad conductor, Civil War spy and nurse, and women’s rights advocate Harriet Tubman.

 

Frederick Douglass (1818-1895) — originally named Frederick Augustus Washington Bailey — was born enslaved on the Holmes Hill Farm on Tuckahoe Creek in Talbot County, just south of Hillsboro. Douglass was raised with several other enslaved children by his grandmother, Betsy Bailey. His mother, Harriet Bailey, was enslaved on a plantation a dozen miles away. Douglass later said that he only remembered seeing his mother a few times before she died when he was about 7.

 

Douglass said in his early writings that his mother’s White enslaver, Aaron Anthony, was likely his father, but he later stated that he couldn’t confirm who his father was.



In 1826 at age 8, Douglass was sent to live and work in the Fells Point neighborhood of Baltimore, where he served as caretaker and companion for a younger White boy, Thomas Auld. He joined Thomas for lessons in reading and writing taught by his mother, Sophia.

 

Frederick’s attendance was abruptly halted when Sophia’s husband, Hugh Auld, found out about the shared lessons. Auld told his wife that education would “spoil a slave.” Besides, teaching a slave to read and write was against the law in Maryland and most other southern states. But by then, Frederick had caught the learning bug and he continued to learn on his own, secretly borrowing Thomas’s schoolbooks and even trading food with White boys on the streets for help with lessons.

 

In August 1832, when Frederick was about 13 or 14, he was sent back to the Shore to St. Michael’s. His original enslaver having died, Frederick was now enslaved by Thomas Auld, uncle of the boy he had served in Fells Point. This Auld was well-known as a hard, often abusive enslaver. A strong and hard worker, Douglass had also become a resentful and rebellious teenager and wanted to be free.

 

Six months after his return, in January 1833, Douglass’s labor was leased to a local farmer, Edward Covey. Known as a “slave breaker,” Covey used harsh physical and psychological treatment to break the spirit of an enslaved worker.

 

It didn’t work that way with Douglass, who endured months of mistreatment, including frequent beatings. One day when Covey began beating him, Douglass fought back. After a two-hour struggle, Douglass prevailed and Covey never laid hands on him again.

 

In January 1834, Douglass was sent to work on the nearby William Freeland farm where conditions were better. There he used his free time to start a Sabbath school and secretly taught local Blacks to read and write. Still determined to gain his freedom, he and four other enslaved workers made plans to escape by canoe to Pennsylvania. Unfortunately, their plans were discovered and all four were arrested. After a short incarceration, Douglass, instead of suffering the common fate for rebellious enslaved workers of being “sold South,” was sent back to live again with Hugh and Sophia Auld in Baltimore.

 

There Douglass learned the craft of ship caulking and was hired out to shipyards. At first the Aulds took his wages and gave Douglass a small portion to keep as his own. Later, Douglass was allowed to hire himself out, giving a set amount weekly to the Aulds and paying for his own food and clothes.

 

With this increased liberty of movement and some limited economic freedom, Douglass began to spend time in the local Black community where he met a freeborn Black woman, Anna Murray. In September 1838, she helped him escape to freedom in the North and his days as an enslaved worker were over.

 

Murray joined him shortly after his self-liberation and the two were married in New York. Family tradition says that Murray sold her feather bed to help pay for Douglass’s passage North.

 

The newlyweds soon left for Massachusetts where it was safer for formerly enslaved people than in “slave-catcher” infested New York City. It was in New Bedford that Frederick Bailey shed his alias, “Frederick Johnson,” and took the name under which he would become a famous orator, founder of three newspapers, writer of three autobiographies, and a life-long civil rights advocate. His adopted surname, “Douglass,” was inspired by Sir Walter Scott’s poem, The Lady of the Lake. In the poem, “Douglass” was “an exiled nobleman.”

 

Though not all the dangers to his liberty were over, at age 20 Frederick Douglass was free to begin charting his own direction in life.




The Frederick Douglass Driving Tour starts at Frederick Douglass Park on the Tuckahoe River near his birthplace. In the park are outdoor exhibits depicting his early years with his grandparents and cousins.

 

In nearby Easton, a statue of Douglass stands in front of the Talbot County Courthouse where Douglass gave his famous “Self-Made-Man Speech” in 1878. Then visit the nearby old Talbot County Jail House where Douglass was held after his first failed escape attempt over 50 years earlier in the 1830s.

 

Head to St. Michael’s where the 15-year-old Frederick started a secret school for Black people. You can stay at the Dr. Dodson House B&B, previously the home of the daughter of Douglass’s former enslaver Thomas Auld. Several years after the Civil War, Douglass was welcomed as an honored guest at the daughter’s home.

 

Also in St. Michael’s is the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum which includes the Mitchell House where Frederick Douglass’s sister, Eliza Bailey Mitchell, lived. It is an excellent example of the home of a free middle-class Black family. Eliza’s husband, Peter Mitchell, was born enslaved but was later freed due to Quaker influence on the owner’s family. As a freed man in 1836, Mitchell “bought” his wife Eliza and their two children for $100. After the Civil War, Douglass would visit his sister and family there.

 

The St. Michael’s Museum offers a Frederick Douglass Walking Tour on the 2nd and 4th Saturday every month from May through October.

 

The driving tour continues to follow Douglass’s history, winding through the Eastern Shore then on to Annapolis, Baltimore, and Washington, D.C., where Douglass lived and worked in his later years. In most places, self-guided walking tours and/or docent-led tours are available.

 

Despite the hardships of his early years in Maryland, Douglass felt a strong love and kinship for the Eastern Shore. Here is a quote from Douglass about his ties to Maryland.

 

“I am an Eastern Shoreman, with all that name implies. Eastern Shore corn and Eastern Shore pork gave me my muscle. I love Maryland and the Eastern Shore!

 

 

Jane Jewell is a writer, editor, photographer, and teacher. She has worked in news, publishing, and as the director of a national writer's group. She lives in Chestertown with her husband Peter Heck, a ginger cat named Riley, and a lot of books.

 

Common Sense for the Eastern Shore

By Jan Plotczyk September 10, 2025
 At Shore Progress’s monthly meeting last week, the tension between national politics and local opportunity was on full display. With President Donald Trump escalating his attacks on offshore wind, representatives from US Wind and the Oceantic Network made their case directly to members gathered in Salisbury. From the outset, the presenters stressed the scale of what’s coming to the Eastern Shore. “This project is the equivalent of building two nuclear power plants off our coast,” US Wind representative Dave Wilson said, pointing to plans for 114 turbines and four offshore substations. Together, he said, the project will generate two net gigawatts of clean energy, enough to power approximately 26% of the homes in Maryland. The presentation walked members through the timeline: a four-phase buildout beginning in the southeast corner of the lease area, with each phase, including its own export cable, routed through Indian River Bay into the regional grid at the Indian River Power Plant in Delaware. Environmental safeguards on display Slides showed how US Wind plans to minimize negative effects on wildlife. The company will use an aircraft detection lighting system to keep turbines dark until a low-flying aircraft approaches, reducing night-sky light pollution. Marine protections include bubble curtains to dampen noise during pile driving, visual and acoustic monitoring for whales, and strict shutdown zones if animals enter construction areas. Lights will be on less than 1% of the time in any given year, underscoring their view that offshore wind can coexist with migratory birds, commercial fishing, and marine transit. Economic promise for the Shore The discussion turned quickly to what the project means locally. US Wind pledged hundreds of jobs for the Shore, with commitments to use union labor and partner with minority, women, and veteran-owned businesses. Officials noted that the Lower Shore Workforce Alliance has already received $700,000 from Maryland Works for Wind to build training programs, while community colleges are adjusting trade curricula to educate the next generation of turbine technicians. A planned operations and maintenance facility in West Ocean City will house technicians and crew transfer vessels, bringing steady employment and infrastructure investment to the harbor. A national fight with local stakes The meeting didn’t shy away from politics. Several members noted Trump’s repeated attempts to derail offshore wind projects including his latest push to revoke US Wind’s federal permit. US Wind officials acknowledged that such lawsuits could delay progress but insisted that the project’s federal approvals are on solid ground. “This is the Eastern Shore's moment,” Shore Progress Chair Jared Schablein said, referring to a slide that showed more than $815 million in offshore wind investments statewide. “The question is whether politics will slow us down, or whether we keep building for the Shore’s future.” The presentation had a clear message: Offshore wind is not just about clean power, but also about jobs, investment, and opportunity for Eastern Shore families. Jan Plotczyk spent 25 years as a survey and education statistician with the federal government, at the Census Bureau and the National Center for Education Statistics. She retired to Rock Hall.
By Gren Whitman September 10, 2025
Standing at the Legacy at Twin Rivers apartment community in Howard County, Maryland Gov. Wes Moore signed an executive order aimed at addressing his state’s deepening housing crisis. Titled Housing Starts Here, his order is designed to accelerate construction of affordable homes and cut through what Moore called years of “no and slow” decision-making in state housing policy. Maryland is facing a shortage of at least 96,000 housing units, according to state estimates, a gap that officials say has driven up prices, pushed families out of the state, and stifled economic growth. “Building pathways to wealth for Marylanders, creating jobs, attracting new businesses and residents, growing our economy, and securing our future all start with housing,” Moore said at the signing. “We need to be the state of yes and now.” Five guiding principles The executive order lays out five core priorities for state housing policy: Use state land for housing . Agencies must identify surplus properties and land near transit stations that can be converted into new housing developments. Cut red tape. State permitting processes will be streamlined, with new rules allowing third-party reviewers to accelerate approvals. Strengthen partnerships. A new State Housing Ombudsman will serve as a liaison to help coordinate projects between state agencies, local governments, and developers. Set clear goals. By January 2026, the state will publish housing production targets for each county and update them every five years. Incentivize affordable housing. Jurisdictions that meet housing targets or pass pro-housing policies will be recognized with new Maryland Housing Leadership Awards, making them more competitive for state funding. Speed as the priority State officials said the new framework is focused on cutting delays that can hold back projects for years. By digitizing applications, engaging multiple agencies simultaneously, and allowing outside reviewers, the state aims to expedite project completion while upholding environmental and community standards. What could this mean for us on the Eastern Shore? Moore acknowledged that housing affordability consistently ranks as Marylanders’ No. 1 concern. For young people in particular, high costs and long commutes are major reasons they leave the state. The order seeks to reverse that trend, tying housing growth to job creation and transit access. On the Eastern Shore , where rental availability and starter homes are limited, Moore’s order could open opportunities for mixed-use, transit-oriented projects on state-owned land, as well as accelerate approval for affordable housing initiatives backed by nonprofits and local developers. What comes next The Department of Housing and Community Development will publish the state’s first set of production targets by Jan. 1, 2026, followed by annual progress reports starting in 2027. Agencies have until March 2026 to implement many of the new permitting and funding acceleration rules. Moore framed the executive order as a generational investment. “Making housing more affordable is not just about building shelter, it’s about building a legacy,” he said.
By Gren Whitman September 10, 2025
Sen. Angela Alsobrooks (D-Md.) has intensified her calls for Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. to step down, releasing a detailed report that she says proves his tenure has been a disaster for American families. The first senator to demand Kennedy’s resignation in May, Alsobrooks joined Senate Finance Committee Ranking Member Ron Wyden (D-Ore.) in unveiling a 54-page report that chronicles what they describe as the “costly, chaotic, and corrupt” record of Kennedy’s first 203 days at the department. Released before Kennedy’s Senate hearing last week, the report outlines examples of alleged mismanagement for each day since he was sworn in on Feb. 13. “Robert Kennedy’s tenure as America’s chief health officer has been higher costs, more chaos, and boundless corruption,” Wyden said. “His actions are endangering children, leaving parents confused and scared, and forcing families and taxpayers to pay more for their health care.” Echoing that assessment, Alsobrooks cited testimony from scientists at the National Institutes of Health in Maryland who she says have watched critical cancer research grind to a halt under Kennedy’s leadership. “His actions are increasing Americans’ health care costs, causing chaos, and furthering the Trump administration’s endless stream of corruption,” she said. The report argues that Kennedy has: Driven up costs by backing the Trump administration’s budget plan, which Alsobrooks says strips health coverage from 15 million Americans while handing tax breaks to the wealthy and corporations. Created chaos by dismantling HHS programs, undermining research institutions, and promoting vaccine misinformation. Engaged in corruption by using the office to advance personal and family financial interests, particularly around limiting vaccine access. Public Citizen, a consumer advocacy group, praised Alsobrooks’ leadership. “President Trump and Senate Republicans made a grievous error when entrusting Kennedy with our nation’s health,” the group said in. “It is far past time that President Trump rectifies this error by firing Kennedy before more lives are unnecessarily put at risk.” Alsobrooks appeared on the Morning Joe TV show on to discuss the findings and to reiterate her demand that Kennedy resign or be removed. “This is about protecting families and protecting science,” she said. “Our nation’s health system cannot afford another day under Robert Kennedy’s reckless watch.” As a community organizer, journalist, administrator, project planner/manager, and consultant, Gren Whitman has led neighborhood, umbrella, public interest, and political committees and groups, and worked for civil rights and anti-war organizations.
By CSES Staff September 10, 2025
Wicomico County leaders have announced plans to move forward with the federal government’s controversial 287(g) program, entering into an agreement with U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) that would deputize local officers to serve immigration warrants inside the county jail. Under the model selected, known as the Warrant Service Officer program, specially trained deputies at the detention center would be allowed to serve civil immigration warrants on individuals already in custody. County Executive Julie Giordano and Sheriff Mike Lewis emphasized that deputies would not conduct street-level immigration enforcement. “Public safety is our top responsibility,” Giordano said. “The Warrant Service Officer program provides our sheriff’s office with the tools they need to address individuals already in custody who may pose a risk to our community at no additional cost to the county.” Lewis added that the program “gives our deputies the ability to safely and lawfully carry out their duties while ensuring that Wicomico County remains a secure place to live, work, and raise a family.” Community pushback The announcement drew swift opposition from civil rights and community organizations, including the ACLU of Maryland, the Wicomico NAACP, and local grassroots groups such as Crabs on the Shore, who have warned that the agreement will harm immigrant families, sow fear, and erode trust between residents and law enforcement. Opponents also criticized the process, arguing that the decision was rushed through without meaningful public input despite repeated calls for hearings. “This is being framed as an administrative detail, but it has huge consequences for our neighbors,” one advocate said. Concerns about cost and precedent Supporters of the WSO model have emphasized that the partnership comes “at no additional cost” to Wicomico taxpayers, but critics point out that other jurisdictions have found otherwise. Anne Arundel County canceled its own 287(g) agreement, citing high costs and community backlash. The Camden Police Department in Delaware withdrew from a similar partnership after public protests in May. Advocates note that the federal government does not fully reimburse counties for the time, training, and legal exposure associated with 287(g) programs, leaving local taxpayers to shoulder hidden expenses. First on Delmarva If finalized, Wicomico County would become the first government or police agency on the Delmarva Peninsula to formally enter into a 287(g) agreement with ICE. Supporters say that distinction demonstrates a commitment to accountability and public safety. Opponents warn it risks branding the county as hostile to immigrant communities that have long been central to the Shore’s workforce, particularly in poultry processing and agriculture. The county’s decision comes amid a broader national debate about local involvement in federal immigration enforcement, with critics warning that partnerships like 287(g) make communities less safe by discouraging victims and witnesses from coming forward. For now, the final agreement is pending federal approval. But with strong opposition already mobilized, the fight over Wicomico’s new partnership is likely only beginning.
By CSES Staff September 10, 2025
Wicomico County Republicans have moved forward with an agreement to join the federal 287(g) program, aligning the county with the U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE). County Executive Julie Giordano and Sheriff Mike Lewis are backing the program to train county officers at the detention center to help ICE identify non-citizens for deportation proceedings. The agreement has triggered strong pushback from immigrant advocates, civil rights groups, and community leaders who warn that this partnership will erode trust between residents and law enforcement, risk racial profiling, and allot local tax dollars to assist federal immigration enforcement. Yet amid the growing controversy, the Wicomico County Democratic Central Committee has issued no response to the ICE agreement, even as residents voice frustration that the Democratic establishment’s silence has ceded the conversation to Republicans. Moreover, the Central Committee has remained silent with regard to recent comments by Democratic Councilwoman April Jackson, who told the Washington Post that the poultry industry should reduce its reliance on immigrant workers. Jackson also said, “a lot of Americans aren’t employed because the Haitians are taking our jobs.” Jackson’s remarks have drawn widespread criticism from immigrant advocates. For many residents, the Democratic leadership’s silence is as much of a concern as the county government’s new partnership with ICE. As the county waits for federal approval of the 287(g) agreement, the absence of a Democratic counterweight has left immigrant families and community organizers to carry the opposition on their own.
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By Community Desk September 10, 2025
With speculation mounting that Delegate Sheree Sample-Hughes (D-37A) may run for County Executive for Wicomico County in 2026, the longtime Eastern Shore lawmaker will headline a Community Conversation in Dorchester County on Sept. 17 at 6 pm. Sponsored by the Eastern Shore Democrats, the event will give residents the opportunity to hear Sample-Hughes speak about local priorities — schools, public safety, health care access, and economic development in the mid-Shore. Sample-Hughes, former Speaker Pro Tem of the Maryland House of Delegates, has represented portions of Wicomico and Dorchester counties for more than a decade. Her record includes bipartisan work on district projects, as well as efforts to expand health services and invest in infrastructure. Although organizers emphasize that the Sept. 17 gathering is not a campaign event, the timing has fueled interest. Political observers note that any appearance by Sample-Hughes will be closely watched as Democrats weigh potential challengers for County Executive in the upcoming cycle. The forum will include remarks from the delegate, followed by a question-and-answer session. Seating is available first-come, first-served and residents from across the Shore are encouraged to attend. Key details What: Community Conversation with Del. Sheree Sample-Hughes When: Sept. 17, 6 pm Where: Dorchester County, venue to be announced by organizers. Format: Remarks followed by audience Q&A Before her election to the House of Delegates, Sample-Hughes served on the Wicomico County Council. Should she enter the county executive race, many believe she would be a serious challenger to Republican incumbent Julie Giordano.
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