Editor’s Note: The holiday season is as good a time as any to explore lovely Dorchester County. Be sure to check out the crab basket tree, celebrating Dorchester’s waterman culture, in Cambridge at the corner of Race and Gay Streets.
Most travelers encounter Dorchester County, Maryland’s largest and least densely populated subdivision, as they drive along Route 50 on their way to Ocean City. After they cross the estuarial Choptank River, they stop-and-go through a commercial section of Cambridge, swing east through 16 miles of cornfields, and finally bypass the town of Vienna to cross the Nanticoke River. They miss most of the county, which is a lot.
There are special places in Dorchester County to explore, savor, and remember. You’ll be helped by having a road map: Recommended is the DeLorme Atlas & Gazetteer for Maryland and Delaware.
Taylors Island, a historic community dating to the 1600s, lies at the western end of Route 16 with its War of 1812 “Battle of the Ice Mound” site, ancient churches and graveyards, an old school, and a modern campground. To get there, you cross Stewart’s Canal built by enslaved people and brush past abolitionist Harriet Tubman’s birthplace near Madison, once called Tobacco Stick.
Just to the south are several isolated watermen’s communities. On the west side of the Honga River are Honga, Fishing Creek, and Hoopersville. Across the river to the east are Wingate, Bishops Head, Toddville, Crocheron, and Crapo. The villages have modest homes — sometimes with a workboat docked in front and deceased family forebears buried in the side yard.
Near these isolated towns you’ll find the vast Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge, 32,000 acres and 45 square miles of water, marsh, and loblolly pines stretching to the horizon. From November through March, refuge visitors can spot thousands of Canada geese, Tundra swans, and several species of ducks. Bald eagles also abound in winter; you cannot miss them! A lucky visitor might happen on a rare Delmarva Fox squirrel (large body, small ears).
Dorchester County is where Harriet Tubman was born circa 1820 and from where she escaped enslavement in 1849. It was mostly from Dorchester County that Tubman guided 73 of her family members and friends to freedom in 13 daring rescue missions in the decade before the Civil War.
And adjacent to the Blackwater Refuge is the Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad National Historical Park and Visitor Center. After you finish here, you can begin a driving tour of the Tubman Byway, which includes 45 historically significant sites along the Underground Railroad in Maryland, Delaware, and Pennsylvania. (This writer’s favorite site is the nearby Bucktown Store a few miles east of Blackwater, the very spot where Tubman was grievously injured as a teenager. It has been restored.)
Cambridge’s Gloria Richardson is another notable historic figure in Dorchester County. Richardson was the tenacious leader of the Cambridge Nonviolent Action Committee through two years of unrelenting racial strife and violence in 1962-63. Militant to her core, Richardson said, “A first-class citizen does not beg for freedom. A first-class citizen does not plead to the white power structure to give him something that the whites have no power to give or take away. Human rights are human rights, not white rights.” A self-guided Pine Street Walking Tour is available to learn about Cambridge’s civil rights struggle.
Striking murals by local artist Michael Rosato can be found in Cambridge as well as in Hurlock, East New Market, and Vienna. They depict Tubman and Richardson, abolitionist Frederick Douglass, lesser-known locals, historic scenes, and depictions of nature. Especially dramatic is Rosato’s painting of a Great Blue heron at the J.M. Clayton Co.’s cannery in Cambridge. There is a new-in-2022 statue of Tubman in front of the county courthouse in Cambridge.
You can explore Cambridge’s lively harbor, its rebuilt riverfront and city marina with sweeping views of the lower Choptank River, and the repurposed Phillips Packing Company with its historic brick smokestacks.
Although Cambridge is Dorchester County’s only city, the county is dotted with smaller towns, each with their own attractions. Take a stroll and meet locals in Church Creek, East New Market, Hurlock, Secretary, and Vienna.
Here are two interesting drives:
There is much more to discover in Dorchester County, but these suggestions will give you a good start for exploring this venerable and significant corner of Maryland.
For more information:
Harriet Tubman Museum and Educational Center:
https://visitdorchester.org/harriet-tubman-museum-educational-center/
Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad National Historical Park and Visitor Center
https://www.nps.gov/hatu/planyourvisit/index.htm
For more on Tubman’s birthplace:
https://www.washingtonpost.com/history/2021/04/20/harriet-tubman-maryland-home-found/
For more on Rosato’s murals:
https://visitdorchester.org/wp-content/uploads/MuralTrali_ForWebPDF.pdf
For more on Cambridge civil rights history:
https://visitdorchester.org/wp-content/uploads/PineStWalkingTour.pdf
For more on Taylors Island:
For more on Fishing Bay Water Trail:
https://dnr.maryland.gov/boating/Documents/FB_Watertrails_2.pdf
Mandala Pies in Vienna:
Dorchester County Historical Society:
https://www.dorchesterhistory.com/
Phillips Packing Company:
https://www.thepackinghousecambridge.com/
DeLorme Atlas &B Gazetteer Maryland/Delaware:
Available at independent booksellers as well as Amazon.com
As a community organizer, journalist, administrator, project planner/manager, and consultant, Gren Whitman has led neighborhood, umbrella, public interest, and political committees and groups, and worked for civil rights and anti-war organizations.
Title image: Pond at Pickering Creek Audubon Center, Talbot Co. Photo: Jan Plotczyk