“Frankenfoods” will not be offered at the upcoming Ancient Grains Festival on August 13 at the Old Wye Mill. Instead, einkorn and spelt, two ancient grains, will be on sale.
Any grain that’s been genetically modified to produce nutritional advantages, to increase crop yields, to resist pests, and so forth, is known as a “Frankenfood.” On the other hand, an ancient grain (for example, einkorn — in German, “one grain”) is genetically simple; over thousands of years, einkorn has not been modified or selected for certain traits, including having much gluten, which, with yeast, enables bread to rise.
Einkorn is low in gluten and can be eaten by some with a gluten allergy. Some people with gluten allergies can tolerate a tiny bit of gluten; some go to the hospital having ingested a miniscule amount.
Wye Mill’s organic einkorn is locally grown at Mount Zion Farm in Caroline County. Orqanic grain requires less fertilizer, saving the farmer money and the environment from runoff.
Spelt is another ancient grain that will be available at the festival. Spelt originated perhaps 7,000 years ago in the Middle East. Unlike wheat, to mill spelt requires removing its thick husk before the grain is ground. The husk on some spelt grains prevents damage by cold temperatures. Holland gin, called jenever, is distilled from spelt.
In operation since 1682, the Old Wye Mill grinds many grains, ancient and modern, organic and regular, into flour, and sells them. The flours have no additives. The products available for sale vary. Most visitors will find whole wheat flour, corn meal and grits, spelt, einkorn, and buckwheat. Also on sale are maple syrup and jams.
For some, the festival’s main attraction is the grinding operation. Visitors can observe the grist mill system invented by the early American mechanical genius, Oliver Evans (1755-1819). Before Evans, a grist mill would require the labor of eight or ten men, mostly to carry heavy loads up and down stairs. At the Wye Mill, one or two millers run the whole show. Grain or corn drops down a small trap door near the entrance, and flour arrives in a bin close by, ready for weighing and bagging.
Evans' invention reduced the number of workers needed at a grist mill and increased the food supply in the early American Republic. At that time, one’s “daily bread” was a most important food. During the revolution, much of the Continental Army’s food was from mills on the Eastern Shore, earning our region the name, “Breadbasket of the American Revolution.”
In addition to the historic mill and its products, other local products will be available. Mason’s Heritage Family Farm will offer fresh produce, and Claire Bramble will sell cuts of grass-fed beef. Aaron Cooper’s Cutfresh Organics will offer fresh vegetables. The Triple Creek Winery from Cordova will hold a wine-tasting. And Wye Mill’s einkorn supplier, Gerry Godfrey, will have his einkorn available. Millers will grind grain and answer questions about milling and the history of the mill from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. on August 19. If you are interested in volunteering as a tour guide, please let someone know.
Old Wye Mill, 900 Wye Mills Road, (Route 662), Wye Mills. Free admission, with a suggested donation of $2.00 per person. Phone 410-827-3850.
Recommended recipes:
Apple Cinnamon Einkorn Pancakes
Jim Block taught English at Northfield Mount Hermon, a boarding school in Western Mass. He coached cross-country, and advised the newspaper and the debate society there. He taught at Marlborough College in England and Robert College in Istanbul. He and his wife retired to Chestertown, Md. in 2014.
Title image: Pond at Pickering Creek Audubon Center, Talbot Co. Photo: Jan Plotczyk