There was a time when a holiday meal on the Eastern Shore wasn’t complete without Maryland beaten biscuits, or “beat biscuits” as they’re called in Rock Hall.
Beaten biscuits, which have been around since the 16th century as hardtack on Royal Navy ships, came to the Eastern Shore in colonial times, and evolved into the traditional biscuit we know from the 20th century.
Made from a simple recipe of flour, salt, sugar, lard, and cold water or milk, the resulting biscuits typically have a firm crust and tender inside. Later recipes incorporated a pinch of baking powder and/or cream of tartar, as those became available. The dough is mixed by hand, never by machine.
To make up for the lack of yeast or other leavening agent, biscuit makers beat the dough with special hammers, rolling pins, axe handles, or even baseball bats. This effort was an energetic and time-consuming substitute, however, taking a half-hour to hour of pounding — or more. Enslaved people did this task in the early days, children and husbands in later years; even later, machines called biscuit brakes were invented to roll the dough to supplement the beating, and were used for commercial production.
A humorous description of the beating process is included in the wonderful cookbook/history/travelogue,
Chesapeake Bay Cooking with John Shields, by John Shields and Jed Kirschbaum:
“Its execution is best described by Joanne Pritchett, whose great-great grandmother was a cook on a St. Mary’s plantation: ‘Honey, every time I know I'm going to make these biscuits, I get myself good and mad. Normally I think about my sister-in-law, Darlene, who ran off with my husband right after Granny Pritchett’s funeral. That was years ago, but it still galls me into making some of the tenderest biscuits around.
“Depending on my mood, I use an axe or a big old mallet. I make a ball out of the dough to look like Darlene’s head and, baby, I let her have it. Use the flat side of the axe or mallet, and beat the hell out of the dough till it blisters good. Takes about half an hour, but honey, it makes them tender as butter.’”
The flattened dough, whether beaten or rolled, is then folded over itself into layers or rolled into a snake. Torn into uniform pieces, each dough piece is individually kneaded by hand and shaped into a ball. A fork or a special wooden or metal-pronged marker, unique to each family, is used to identify the maker and to let out a little bit of moisture and air during baking.
The resulting biscuits, after baking, are pale, cream-colored balls with pricks on top, dense and soft inside. They are traditionally served with butter, blackstrap molasses, or country ham, for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or snack. Yum!
Unfortunately, you’ll have to make your biscuits yourself (if you can find the time), because all the traditional commercial makers have gone out of business. Or perhaps you can find a local source — a Christmas bazaar such as the one at Emmanuel Episcopal Church in Chestertown, or the Thanksgiving and Easter sales at the Rock Hall Volunteer Fire Company — where local bakers, using family recipes, are keeping this Eastern Shore tradition alive.
For more information, see:
Parsons family (Allen, Md.) traditional Maryland beaten biscuits (39 min video instructions), part of the Digitizing Delmarva Heritage and Traditions project
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EL1WODsj6EYOrrell’s Maryland Beaten Biscuit Co. (Wye Mills, Md.), unfortunately closed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNMiJTtVwL8Other Sources:
https://oldlineplate.com/maryland-beaten-biscuits/https://gardenandgun.com/recipe/the-art-of-the-beaten-biscuit/http://atasteofhistorywithjoycewhite.blogspot.com/2015/03/maryland-beaten-biscuits.html