“But where’s the meat?”
That’s a question that almost every kid — and quite a few adults — asks about mincemeat at some point. When told there is no meat, the kid — or adult — then asks, “So why do they call it mincemeat?”
Like the old “Where’s the beef?” commercial, we all want to know why there’s no meat in mincemeat. Well, in fact, there used to be. For hundreds of years, mincemeat was based on minced — that is, finely chopped — meat. Fruit, fat, seasonings, and other ingredients were added and the mixture was cooked.
Mincemeat was a good way to preserve and flavor meat without having to dry, smoke, or salt the meat first. To make a pie, the mince filling was baked in a pastry crust. Mincemeat was generally made in large batches. Leftover filling could be stored in cans or jars and used over several months.
Slowly, over the last 100 years or so, the recipe has gradually lost the meat, leaving the sweet and spicy fruit blend while retaining the name of mincemeat. The modern, mostly commercially-prepared pie no longer has meat for several reasons: partly because popular tastes have changed but also because meat can now be preserved or kept fresh longer and more easily through modern techniques and refrigeration.
However, homemade versions and some gourmet or niche commercial mincemeats may still incorporate real meat. While historically, mutton was the most common meat used in mincemeat, cooks used whatever was available, from beef, venison, elk, to fish such as salmon. The other ingredients help flavor and preserve. Sugar, in addition to sweetening, is an excellent preservative and was widely used in the days before refrigerated trains and trucks and home refrigeration became common. Most recipes also included alcohol in some form; wine, brandy, or whiskey were common additions.
Mincemeat pies have a long tradition as a Christmas food, particularly in England. The tradition began with the many new spices that were introduced from Asia during the Middle Ages, via the spice route and the crusades. The popular spices of cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves were said to represent the three gifts of the Magi. Many recipes called for exactly 13 ingredients to represent the 12 apostles plus Jesus. Even the shape of the pie in early versions was more oblong or oval to show the shape of a cradle. These were called crib cakes. Mincemeat pies of any shape were referred to as Christmas pyes.
European settlers brought the preservation method and traditions of mincemeat pies to America by the early 1600s. But when Oliver Cromwell came to power in England in the 1640s, Christmas celebrations — along with mincemeat pies and other seasonal foods and activities — were made illegal as frivolous and sacrilegious. Settlements in Massachusetts colony followed suit, and for 22 years mincemeat pies and all things Christmas were banned in Massachusetts. But in less-Puritan and more-Catholic Maryland, Christmas and mincemeat pies continued as a joyous, if sometimes raucous and rowdy, season of feasting and celebration.
Here’s an old Eastern Shore recipe for mincemeat pie handed down to Common Sense for the Eastern Shore writer George Shivers from his paternal grandmother, Lula Payne Shivers (1872-1949).
2 lbs. of beef and 1 lb. of suet.
Boil beef until done and tender.
Strain through a collander, save beef broth to add later.
Grind beef in meat grinder.
Pare and core ½ peck of apples.
Put through the coarse blade of a grinder.
Put ½ lb. citron through grinder.
When broth is cold, skim off fat.
Put broth, beef, and cut mixtures in large basin and add the following:
1 pkg. currants
2 cups raisins
1 lb. brown sugar
1 tsp. cinnamon
6 oranges and rind of 2
6 lemons and rind of 2
½ tsp. cloves
½ tsp. allspice
½ tsp nutmeg
6 tablespoons of brandy or whiskey — to be added after all ingredients are cooked together and apples are soft.
When making pie, thin with cider.
Note that this recipe varies somewhat from a recipe included in the earliest known cookbook published in the United States, American Cookery by Amelia Simmons, 1796:
4 pounds boiled beef, chopped fine, and salted
6 pounds of raw apple chopped also
1 pound beef suet
one quart of wine or rich sweet cider
one ounce mace, and cinnamon, a nutmeg, two pounds raisins
Bake in paste No. 3 three-fourths of an hour.
Below is a list of websites with more of the fascinating history of mincemeat pie, including one site, Miss Buttercup, that lists online sources for buying various commercial and gourmet mincemeat.
“Old Fashioned Mincemeat Pie,” by Lori Elliott, March 6, 2012, Our Heritage of Health.
https://www.ourheritageofhealth.com/old-fashioned-mincemeat-pie-recipe-from-1798
“The History of Mincemeat Pies, from the Crusades to Christmas,” by Ben Panko, Oct. 26, 2017, Smithsonian Magazine. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/crusades-christmas-history-mincemeat-pies-180966981/
“The History of Mince Pies," Walker’s Shortbread Company. https://www.walkersshortbread.com/the-history-of-mince-pies/
“Mincemeat Pie History,” What’s Cooking America. https://whatscookingamerica.net/history/piehistory/mincemeatpie.htm
“Mincemeat Pie Filling Brands — 5 Yummy Options,” by Jenny Yen, Miss Buttercup.
https://www.missbuttercup.com/mincemeat-pie-filling-brands/
Jane Jewell is a writer, editor, photographer, and teacher. She has worked in news, publishing, and as the director of a national writer's group. She lives in Chestertown with her husband Peter Heck, a ginger cat named Riley, and a lot of books.
Title image: Pond at Pickering Creek Audubon Center, Talbot Co. Photo: Jan Plotczyk