Have you ever tasted muskrat? I haven’t. But perhaps this will be the year.
Long an Eastern Shore delicacy, muskrat is getting harder to find. Aside from a few muskrat-centric festivals, church and fire company dinners, and a few restaurants (see list below), it’s not a food that appears on menus regularly. And 'rat (as it’s commonly known) is a food that few people are willing to tackle preparing. It’s possible to find muskrat meat in a few local markets, but if you can’t do that, you’re faced with trapping, skinning, cleaning, prepping, and then cooking the varmints yourself. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to do all of these steps, but it is a lot of work.
Muskrats are middling-sized rodents — they range from 8-10 inches long plus a long, skinny tail, and weigh from 1.5-4.5 pounds. Native to North America, they live in wetlands. They build nests and live in them with their family, and eat cattails and other marsh vegetation.
Muskrats were a source of food and fur for Indigenous people; White settlers adopted these uses (and exported muskrats to Europe for their fur, where they are now an invasive species). Even today, muskrat musk glands are sold to perfumers. Royal Canadian Mounted Police winter hats are made of muskrat fur, long used for its excellent insulating and waterproof qualities, angering animal rights’ activists who consider muskrat trapping cruel.
Nowadays, muskrat trapping season in Maryland runs from Dec. 15 or Jan. 1 to March 15, depending on the county. Shooting muskrats is not permitted.
To get the full muskrat experience, choose to cook a muskrat meal yourself. If you can find muskrats at the meat counter, you can skip the steps of trapping, skinning, and cleaning, and you can start right in with the prepping and cooking.
Once you’ve decided to cook the critters yourself, you can save yourself a lot of time and experimentation by reading Troy Andrews’s account of his foray into 'rat cookery in Modern Farmer magazine. Intrigued by the prospect of cooking a lesser known protein, Andrews tackled the preparation and entered his creations into Dorchester County’s National Outdoor Show’s muskrat cooking contest several years ago. His article includes his prize-winning (non-traditional) recipes as well as tips for reducing the gaminess of the meat.
If you want to cook a traditional muskrat recipe, you probably can’t go wrong with Celestine Church’s Eastern Shore Muskrat recipe, excerpted from the Our Heritage, Our Food, Allen Historical Society Cookbook.
Celestine B. Polk Church (1916-1973) was a lifelong resident of Allen, Md., in Wicomico County, and a member of Friendship United Methodist Church. She and her two younger brothers were the children of Sgt. Thomas E. Polk, Sr. (9th Cavalry, U.S. Army, Buffalo Soldiers) and Hattie Boone Polk. Celestine was a good student and graduated as the valedictorian of the senior class of Salisbury Colored High School in 1934. She then married Rayfield Church in August of that year. Together they managed their drygoods/entertainment business, Ray’s Place, from the late ‘50s to the late ‘60s on their property on Upper Ferry Rd. in Allen. She did all the cooking from short-order meals to fundraising dinners for their business, in addition to cooking for her family, which included three daughters. She was a great cook who enjoyed preparing wild game her husband brought home after hunting excursions, such as venison, rabbit, and muskrat.
Eastern Shore Muskrat
Prep: Place 3-4 skinned muskrats in a deep stock pot, cover with cold, slightly salted water, cover and put in refrigerator 24-48 hours before cooking. Drain and change water at least three times to drain blood out of the muskrats.
Next day: Rinse muskrats with cold water. Using a paring knife, carefully remove the musk glands (which are in the armpits) and all noticeable fat. Then cut meat up into quarters: hindquarters, back/saddle, front sections, and heads (if desired).
Place all the meat in a large skillet, cast iron if available, and cover with cold water. Add a small amount of salt, several strips of bacon, and parboil for 15 minutes.
Next, place all meat in a large stockpot. Pour in hot water to cover meat well.
Add the following to pot:
2-3 stalks of chopped celery
1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped
2 Tbsp (or more) rubbed sage
2 large dried red pepper pods or 1 Tbsp red pepper flakes (more if you prefer)
Salt and pepper to taste
2-3 bay leaves
Small amount of washed salt pork, cut into small slices
Cover, cook at medium heat until it boils, then reduce to low heat. Simmer two or more hours, stir as needed until meat is very tender but not falling off the bones. Make gravy from thickened broth, if desired. Serve with cornbread, greens, homemade potato salad, and iced tea.
If all that seems like an awful lot of work to you and you decide you don’t want to go to the trouble of preparing a muskrat dinner yourself, there are a number of opportunities to taste this meat, and to immerse yourself in muskrat culture.
Here’s a list of places to taste muskrat:
Muskrats are getting scarcer — habitat loss is to blame. Sea level rise is drowning many wetlands. One recent year, the Elliott Island UM Church had to delay its muskrat dinner by a month in order to get enough muskrat for the crowd, and the Bivalve dinner was forced to import muskrats from Ohio. So if you’re curious, don’t hesitate — try eating muskrat before it’s too late, before this Eastern Shore tradition disappears.
For more information:
The Art and Science of Muskrat Cooking, Modern Farmer, Troy Andrews, March 26, 2014
https://modernfarmer.com/2014/03/art-science-muskrat-cooking/
How to Cook a Muskrat (You Have to Skin it First), Epicurious, Sam Worley, May 22, 2017
https://www.epicurious.com/ingredients/maryland-muskrat-cooking-skinning-competition-article
Our Heritage, Our Food, Allen Historical Society Cookbook
https://allenhistoricalsociety.org/
The cookbook can be purchased for $30 from the Allen Historical Society at P.O. Box 31, Allen, MD 21810. Checks should be made out to the Allen Historical Society. Common Sense for the Eastern Shore does not receive any benefit from your purchase.
Jan Plotczyk spent 25 years as a survey and education statistician with the federal government, at the Census Bureau and the National Center for Education Statistics. She retired to Rock Hall.
Title image: Pond at Pickering Creek Audubon Center, Talbot Co. Photo: Jan Plotczyk