Sugar cookies. Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Among the many things that we all love about the month of December and early January are the wonderful foods that are part of our celebrations of Chanukah, Christmas, Kwanzaa, and the New Year.
Among my favorite foods at Christmastide is mince pie. It was also my father’s favorite, and the only form in which he would consume raisins. My mother always purchased the mincemeat in a jar at the grocery store or even a ready-made pie. That’s not the authentic mince experience! My paternal grandmother made her own mincemeat. Sadly, I never got to experience it, because she had grown old and stopped making it by the time I knew her. If you are an adventurous chef, you may want to try this recipe, but it is a bit complicated and Christmas is drawing near. Since liquor was anathema to my grandmother, I’m surprised that she made an exception for her holiday pies!
Lula Payne Shivers. Photo from the author's collection.
Grandmother Shivers’ Mince Meat
2 lbs. of beef and 1 lb. of suet. Boil beef and suet until done and tender. Strain through a colander, and save beef broth to add later. Grind beef in meat grinder. Pare and core ½ peck of apples. Put through the coarse blade of a grinder. Put ½ lb. of citron through the grinder. When broth is cold, skim off fat. Put broth, beef, apples, and citron into a large basin and add the following ingredients:
1 package currents
2 cups raisins
1 lb. brown sugar
1 tsp. cinnamon
½ tsp. cloves
½ tsp. allspice
½ tsp. nutmeg
6 oranges and the rind of 2
6 lemons and the rind of 2
6 Tablespoons of brandy or whiskey — to be added after other ingredients are cooked together and apples are soft
When making pies, thin with cider.
Privileged as we are to live on the Eastern Shore, where oysters are abundant (so far), you might enjoy this recipe at Christmas, Kwanzaa, or any other occasion. Dare (pronounced Derry) was a familiar figure in the village of Allen through much of the last century and was famed for her oyster fritters and her fried chicken, among other things. She was the granddaughter of a slave and lived from 1895 until 1983.
Personally, I never liked the texture of oysters, but loved the flavor, but both Dare, a dear family friend, and my mother would spoil me by frying up the batter without any of those rubbery oysters in it!
Dare Polk Gunther. Photo: Allen Historical Society
Dare Polk Gunther’s Oyster Fritters
Ingredients:
1 quart oysters with liquor
2 eggs
½ tsp salt
1½ cups flour (approximate)
2 tsp. baking powder
½ cup milk (approximate)
dash of pepper
Mix all ingredients together to form batter. Amounts of milk and flour may vary depending on how much liquor is with the oysters. Fry fritters in deep oil or other shortening. Have pan and oil hot before adding batter.
My mother always made hundreds of cookies and candies at Christmas time to be shared with family and friends, especially the elderly in the neighborhood (unless they suffered from diabetes!). The recipe that follows has always been one of my favorites, and I still make them at this time of year. I have found that sometimes I need to add a little extra flour and I usually wrap the dough in waxed paper and keep in the refrigerator for a while. That makes it easier to roll out the dough.
Lillian and Wilson Shivers, Christmas 1969. Photo from the author's collection.
Lillian Shivers’ Thin Sugar Cookies
Ingredients:
1 cup sugar
1 cup shortening
2 cups flour
1 cup cornstarch
1tsp. baking soda
3 eggs
1 tsp. vanilla
Cream sugar and shortening. Add eggs and mix one at a time. Add other ingredients. Roll dough on floured board. Cut out and sprinkle with caraway or poppy seeds or colored sugars. They may also be iced after baking. Bake at 350 degrees until lightly browned.
This recipe came from Margaret Hayman Pollitt, who lived from 1867 until 1949. If you are planning a party for New Year’s Eve or Day, you might want to try it.
Margaret Hayman Pollitt with her husband Josiah. Photo from the author's collection.
Grandmother Pollitt’s Egg Nog
Ingredients:
16 eggs
1 cup + 2 tablespoons sugar
1 pint brandy
1 pint white rum
1 quart milk
1 pint cream (or half & half, if you wanted less thick)
Separate eggs and beat yolks. Stir 1 cup of sugar into yolks. Add brandy slowly to yolks, beating continuously. Add rum, again beating continuously. Add milk slowly, then the cream, also slowly. Beat egg whites in separate bowl until very stiff, adding 2 tablespoons of sugar. Fold egg whites into mixture. Sprinkle with nutmeg when serving.
If you would enjoy other Eastern Shore Heritage recipes, you might consider purchasing the cookbook prepared by the Allen Historical Society in Wicomico County. All the recipes cited here except for the one for my mother’s sugar cookies can be found there along with many, many more. The cookbook can be purchased for $30 from the Allen Historical Society at P.O. Box 31, Allen, MD 21810. Checks should be made out to the Allen Historical Society. Common Sense for the Eastern Shore does not receive any benefit from your purchase.
A native of Wicomico County, George Shivers holds a doctorate from the University of Maryland and taught in the Foreign Language Dept. of Washington College for 38 years before retiring in 2007. He is also very interested in the history and culture of the Eastern Shore, African American history in particular.
Title image: Pond at Pickering Creek Audubon Center, Talbot Co. Photo: Jan Plotczyk