Thanksgiving — perhaps more than other holidays — is a time when families and friends gather around the table heavy with dishes that honor long-standing traditions. Here on the Eastern Shore those traditions are strong. The recipes presented here come from my own family and from others in the village of Allen in Wicomico County where I grew up.
A brief word about the turkey. Turkey on Thanksgiving is a national tradition, harkening back to that celebration in Massachusetts, when the pilgrims gathered with their Native American neighbors. Some 35 years ago my then fiancée, now wife, Jeanette prepared the turkey for my Aunt Polly and her family who were spending Thanksgiving Day with us. I believe it was the first time she had roasted a turkey, and my aunt, who was never one to hold her tongue, noted that the turkey had been placed in the roaster breast-down, certainly not in keeping with culinary practice. After dinner, my aunt and everyone bragged that it was the most tender and moist turkey breast they had ever tasted!
Mashed potatoes are also standard fare here for the holiday, but you might want to add sour cream to the potatoes in a slight departure from tradition. So, keep in mind this Thanksgiving that tradition is not always best! Now on with the recipes.
First of all, the stuffing. In my family, we never had oyster stuffing, but it should be included in a traditional Eastern Shore Thanksgiving dinner. The following recipe comes from Maryland’s Way:
Oyster Stuffing
Ingredients:
¼ cup butter
4 tablespoons chopped onions
1½ cups chopped celery
4 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 pint oysters
6 cups crustless, diced white bread
1 teaspoon dried basil leaves
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon paprika
1 cup milk and oyster liquor
Instructions:
Melt butter. Add onions, celery, and parsley, and sauté a few minutes. Then add drained, chopped oysters (or they may be left whole) to heat. Combine with bread and seasonings and moisten stuffing slightly with milk and oyster liquor.
For a first course, you might want to try Three Sisters Soup, a Native American recipe, submitted to the Allen Historical Society’s cookbook, Our Heritage, Our Food, by Norris Howard, Sr., chief of the Pocomoke Indian tribe and a resident of Allen. In the introduction to the recipe, he writes: “Many Native American tribes in our geographic area planted corn, climbing beans, and squash together to encourage better growth for each of the three types of plants. These same three vegetables combine to provide the body of a powerhouse of nutrition. This type of soup can incorporate additional ingredients as available.”
Three Sisters Soup
In a soup pot, add corn, green beans, diced squash, and additional ingredients as available (potatoes, carrots, cooked protein, etc.). Add water or soup broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until all vegetables are soft. Blend together about 2 tablespoons of butter with 2 tablespoons of flour and add gradually to soup to thicken. Add additional seasonings to your taste.
Some side dishes to accompany the turkey, stuffing and mashed potatoes for the main course might include the following:
Southern Corn Pudding, a recipe of the late Mrs. Lelia Hitch of Allen
Ingredients:
1 large can creamed corn
3 eggs, slightly beaten
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons melted butter
¼ cup sugar
1/8 cup scalded milk
2 teaspoons grated onion (optional – this writer prefers to leave this out)
Instructions:
Combine all ingredients. Pour into buttered casserole and bake 30 to 40 minutes at 325 degrees.
Stewed Tomatoes, a recipe of my grandmother, Emma Huffington Phillips
Cook one large can of whole tomatoes in saucepan until well done. Stir occasionally while cooking to crush tomatoes before adding other ingredients. Cook over low flame. Add 3 or 4 tablespoons of sugar, a little nutmeg, butter the size of a small walnut. Cook a while longer. Add enough bread crumbs to thicken. Sprinkle with flour, dot butter over top, and place in oven. Bake at 350 degrees until lightly browned. (With apologies to grandmother, I suggest adding ½ teaspoon cinnamon and forget the nutmeg!)
Sweet potatoes are a regular part of the Eastern Shore holiday. They might be simply baked, peeled, and served as they are, or candied. Frequently, they were boiled or baked, then mashed and put in the oven for a short time topped with miniature marshmallows. They would be in the oven at about 350 degrees until the potatoes were thoroughly heated and the marshmallows were a light brown. Never having been a fan of marshmallows, I was not a fan of that dish. My sweet potato recipe follows:
Mashed Sweet Potatoes
Boil six medium-sized sweet potatoes until done. When they have cooled enough to handle, peel them and place them in a large saucepan. Mash until smooth, add 1 teaspoon of vanilla, 1 teaspoon of nutmeg, and ¼ cup of milk. Use a submersible blender to blend while heating on the burner. Once they are thoroughly hot, place in a casserole, top with walnut pieces, and serve.
Cranberries in some form are a must. I really favor the canned, jellied cranberry sauce, however, a good homemade option is cranberry relish. The following recipe is found in the cookbook of the Allen Historical Society:
Cranberry Relish
Ingredients:
4 cups cranberries
2 cups sugar
2 oranges
Instructions:
Put fruit through food chopper, using most of the skin of one orange. Stir sugar in last. Relish keeps in the refrigerator for several weeks.
To round out the table offerings, you can always add a green vegetable and a salad of your choice.
With regard to bread, Maryland beaten biscuits can be seen frequently with Thanksgiving dinner. Another good option is wet cornbread. My favorite recipe follows. It came from the late Mrs. Susan Malone of Allen and is contained in Firemen’s Favorites from the Eastern Shore, produced by the Allen Volunteer Fire Department.
Wet Cornbread
Ingredients:
3 cups water
2 sticks butter or margarine
2 cups cornmeal (white or yellow- I prefer the latter)
1 cup sugar (I cut that down to no more than ½ cup, even 1/3 cup is sufficient)
1½ teaspoons salt
3 eggs
2 cups milk
Instructions:
Place water and butter in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour into a mixing bowl and add remaining ingredients in the order given above. The recipe emphasizes this, so I’ve never defied it! Beat thoroughly after each addition. According to the recipe, it’s very important to add ingredients one at a time and in order, otherwise, the corn bread will not set. Bake at 425 degrees for 35 minutes.
You might also like to serve sweet potato biscuits. This recipe comes from the late the late Mrs. Murrell Simms and is from the cookbook of the Allen Historical Society.
Sweet Potato Biscuits
Ingredients:
2 cups mashed sweet potatoes
½ cup sugar
4 tablespoons shortening (can be butter or margarine)
1 teaspoon salt
3 teaspoons baking powder
2 cups flour
Instructions:
Mix together sugar, shortening, salt, flour, and baking powder. Add sweet potatoes. Form into biscuits and bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes or until done.
The traditional Thanksgiving dessert is, of course, pumpkin pie, but an Eastern Shore substitute or addition is sweet potato pie. Recipes from my grandmothers for both follow.
Pumpkin Pie (Lula Payne Shivers)
Ingredients:
1 cup pumpkin
1 cup milk
1 egg
¾ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ cup melted butter
½ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ginger
1 tsp cornstarch
Instructions:
Mix pumpkin, milk, beaten egg, and melted butter. Mix dry ingredients and add to the pumpkin mixture. Pour into unbaked pie shell and bake at 350 degrees until the pie puffs in the center and turns slightly brown.
Sweet Potato Pie (Emma Huffington Phillips)
Ingredients:
2 cups mashed sweet potatoes
3 eggs
1½ cups sugar
1 cup milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
Instructions:
Beat eggs well. Add sugar, milk, and vanilla. Mix well. Add potatoes and mix well. Pour into pie shell and sprinkle with nutmeg. Bake at 450 degrees for 10 minutes, then reduce to 350 degrees and bake until solid and slightly brown on top.
If you prefer to serve cake, a good seasonal option is raw apple cake. This recipe is also from the cookbook of the Allen Historical Society and comes from the late Mrs. Lula Lee Fields.
Raw Apple Cake
Ingredients:
2 cups sugar
2 cups chopped apples
1¼ cup oil
1 cup nuts
2 eggs
3 cups flour
1 teaspoon vanilla
½ cup milk
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Instructions:
Mix all ingredients, pour into ungreased tube pan and bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour 15 minutes or 1½ hours.
Of course, you may prefer to avoid the whole enterprise and go out for dinner on Thanksgiving Day! Whatever you do, Common Sense for the Eastern Shore wishes you a very happy Thanksgiving!
Sources:
Mrs. Lewis R. Andrews & Mrs. J. Reany Kelly, Maryland’s Way, Annapolis: The Hammond-Harwood House Association, 1963.
The Allen Historical Society, Our Heritage, Our Food, 2020.
Our Favorite Recipes, the United Methodist Women of the Allen Asbury United Methodist Church, 1991.
Allen Volunteer Fire Company, Firemen’s Favorites from the Eastern Shore
A native of Wicomico County, George Shivers holds a doctorate from the University of Maryland and taught in the Foreign Language Dept. of Washington College for 38 years before retiring in 2007. He is also very interested in the history and culture of the Eastern Shore, African American history in particular.
Title image: Pond at Pickering Creek Audubon Center, Talbot Co. Photo: Jan Plotczyk