Photos: Jay Flemming, Scott Budden
They get their seed stock from private hatcheries in Maryland and Virginia. After the addition of new acreage in the Eastern Bay off Kent Island, Orchard Point Oyster Co. planted five million oysters in the water in 2019. In 2020, they scaled back to 3.5 million because of covid-19, but at the same time began to explore new ways to market the product — including the company’s online “Shuck Shop™,” providing mail-order delivery to oyster-lovers in New York state, Florida, and the west coast. They’ve also started a new brand, “Orchard Point Primes (OPP),” a larger version of the company’s regular oysters (Classics).
Since the pandemic began, direct retail sales have expanded to almost 80 percent of their business. But they still deliver to wholesalers all over the area — Scott often driving the van himself. Other days, he’s out on the water or in the office handling sales and marketing.
The regulatory hurdles for new aquaculture businesses are still formidable, Budden said. “It still takes quite a while to get a lease issued.” He said that other states, such as Virginia, can process applications more efficiently because their governments have dedicated marine divisions whereas Maryland’s Department of Natural Resources has to provide a wider range of services. There are a lot of applications in the queue, and the pandemic has created more delays than usual.
Budden’s and the company’s success is just one sign that oyster aquaculture is thriving. Starting with only five acres underwater, he and his partners now work almost 23 acres in two major tributaries in three counties. “The business has grown quite a bit, both in Maryland and nationally,” Budden said. He estimated there are 150 oyster farms statewide, harvesting from about 6,500 acres. That means more competition, more brands on the market, and more choices for consumers. “It’s a buyer’s market now,” he said. Budden expects prices to remain stable, especially after restaurants reopen in the wake of the pandemic. That will put more money in farmers’ pockets as well as giving the public more opportunity to enjoy oysters. There are even online courses in shucking oysters from a national company. Budden said that learning how to shuck was one of the fun things he had picked up after starting the business — “it’s a great party trick,” he said, but it also gives a real sense of accomplishment when done well.
Oyster lovers can place orders through the website — https://www.orchardpointoysters.com/shop — for delivery locally, for pickup at the Retriever Bar & Decoy Bottle Shop in Chestertown or the farm office in Stevensville, and for cold-shipping by overnight express. They’re available shucked or in the shell, as few as a dozen or in party-size lots. It’s a great way to tickle your taste buds while supporting a locally owned business.
Peter Heck is a Chestertown-based writer and editor, who spent 10 years at the Kent County News and three more with the Chestertown Spy. He is the author of 10 novels and co-author of four plays, a book reviewer for Asimov’s and Kirkus Reviews, and an incorrigible guitarist.
Title image: Pond at Pickering Creek Audubon Center, Talbot Co. Photo: Jan Plotczyk